First Snails Now Starfish: The New It Ingredient in Skin Care! Is It Worth It?

Mizon Returning Starfish Cream

What Mizon says:


Mizon’s Returning Starfish Cream is the newest cult beauty item to come out of Korea. It is a unique moisturizer formulated with 70% starfish extract to actively hydrate, regenerate, and rejuvenate skin, leaving it optimally moisturized, firm, and beautifully radiant. The starfish cream also fights wrinkles/blemishes, and protects the skin from harmful environmental factors. Ideal for all skin types (I feel it is too heavy for oily skin),  its texture  is fresh and lightweight, gliding very smoothly on your face to pamper and moisturize every inch of your face. It plumps skin with vital moisture so it looks like it’s in its prime. Wonderfully moisturized, deeply nourished and plumped, skin emerges infinitely regenerated (what do they mean by regenerated?  Skin cell renewal happens every 28 days.)


My opinion:

Starfish or Sea Stars have skin that is made of calcium and are marine invertebrates.   Many species are brightly colored in various shades of red or orange, while others are blue, purple, grey or brown.

As well as the starfish, the echinoderms include sea urchins, sand dollars, brittle and basket stars, sea cucumbers and crinoids.

About 1,500 species of starfish occur on the seabed in all the world’s oceans, from the tropics to frigid polar waters.

Starfish are famous for the ability to regenerate limbs this only applies to some of the species not all.

Does that mean it can regenerate your skin? 

I could find research on: Asterina pectinifera, Asterias rubens, and Pentaceraster regulus.

Researchers found that an extract of an (A. pectinifera) contained seven steroids, some of which exhibited antiviral activities against herpes simplex virus type 1 (Chemical and Pharmaceutical Bulletin).

This study suggests that its extract might have the ability to treat hyperpigmentation. Researchers found that the extracts inhibited the production of melanin, which causes age spots and the like, by reducing the activity of the enzyme that causes melanin production, tyrosinase (International Journal of Molecular Medicine). 

Regenerating-tissues of the starfish A. rubens were studied for the presence of growth factors liable to stimulate the proliferation of fibroblast and epithelial cells (3T3, BHK21 and Hela cells). It contained four different peptides, all the peptides were lysine rich and one presented an amino-acid composition comparable to basic-fibroblast growth factor (b-FGF) while its molecular weight was higher. (Heparin-binding molecules with growth factor activities in regenerating-tissues of the starfish Asterias rubens.)

A study of P. regulus involving its ability to aid in wound healing. Researchers applied a P. regulus extract to cutaneous wounds on guinea pigs; they measured wound area; wound tensile strength; and DNA, protein, and hydroxyproline levels. Wounds treated with the extract saw a 42% reduction in wound area; an increase in cellular proliferation and collagen synthesis (as indicated by increased DNA, protein, and hydroxyproline levels); and a 34% increase in tensile strength, which corresponds to the increase in cellular proliferation and collagen synthesis (Journal of Wound Care).

From what I have read there isn’t enough research done yet to prove or disprove that starfish extract is an effective skin care ingredient. What type of starfish is being used?  How much and at what concentration of the extract?

In the meantime I recommend spending your money on tried and true ingredients  like AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, and vitamin A derivatives.


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